Herzegovina Unplugged
Herzegovina Unplugged
When you come here, forget technology and live in the moment
By Slobodan Vulešević
You can reach Herzegovina from several directions. But, if you really want to find this place, no mapping program or GPS device can help you. The virtual world can't show it because the stretch from Trebinje to Međugorje is actually an endless series of paradigms. In this area, often considered the most underdeveloped part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, there are unexplained phenomena in which the great cosmic rhythm of nature, people, and the seasons loudly resonate. In all probability, this is the only part of the country where any kind of consensus has been reached: everyone here is – first and foremost – a Hercegovac. They all like to brag how they make the best wine, brandy, and honey. They're all very proud of their Herzegovina heritage … ethnicity is mentioned only in passing.
If you're coming from Dubrovnik, Croatia, the most logical destination is Trebinje, a town with a Mediterranean aura, which will remind you of the South of France. Its strengths are varied and multicultural. Several orthodox monasteries on Trebinje's outskirts define the history of the region. You'd be ill advised to miss the Tvrdoš Monastery. Trebinje's Old Town was built during Ottoman times, with a mosque at its center. And Dubrovnik’s architecture is felt in the Old Town as well as the wider area.
Petrovo Polje is very close to Trebinje. It may seem insignificant, but when travelers visit they should know that an indigenous bean variety is cultivated here. This unique and tasty legume inspired the establishment of the first Slow Food convivium in Herzegovina. The stone-like, non-genetically-modified wonder is known as poljak. They make an extraordinary stew. Eating it is a privilege – not just because it’s nutritious but also because you can actually, if only briefly, taste the whole region on the tip of your tongue. This hearty meal sublimates the entire rocky land that is Herzegovina.
Once leaving Trebinje, the drive through Popovo Polje heads towards Stolac. Your GPS will help you find the way to the splendid Vjetrenica cave, not far from the village of Ravno. You'd most likely find the astounding Zavala monastery in the same way. But a GPS would prove useless looking for Anđelko Dolina, from the village of Orašje in Popovo Polje. He is the only local producer of desetoredac maize. His corn is stone-ground in the Krešić family's 400 year-old water mill in Čapljina. Simply tasting the polenta made of this stone-ground cornmeal make it clear how people survived for centuries in an area conspired against by both history and climate.
In all probability, this is the only part of the country where any kind of consensus has been reached: everyone here is – first and foremost – a Hercegovac.
I can't imagine how a digital gadget could help you find nana Elvira Zele in Stolac, either. Her wondrous pita kureljača is second to none. And even if you Google words like šipak, smokva and maslina (as pomegranates, figs, and olives are called here), you’ll find nothing to help you grasp the enthusiasm the Crnići Cooperative has for encouraging the production of these Mediterranean fruits. You’ll also find nothing that can replace standing in Stolac, which is something akin to a living museum and archaeological El Dorado.
If arriving from Split, Croatia, the first destination will be Međugorje – a sanctuary visited by millions of Catholic devotees. They come, from all around the world, without digital guides. They depend on their faith. Be sure to visit the vast number of small churches of both confessions between Međugorje and Mostar.
But all roads lead to Mostar and its Stari Most (Old Bridge). The Old Town surrounding it is lined with a multitude of small shops selling the precious creations of the dying handicraft trade. Visit the Okusi Hercegovinu (Taste Herzegovina) shop. It's the only fair trade shop in town.
In nearby Blagaj, at the very source of the Buna River, take the opportunity to see the old tekke and get a feel for dervish mysticism. Be sure to visit the highlands of the Podveležje Plateau. The weathered but friendly locals will serve you your fill of rakija and the air-dried meat produced from the endemic pramenka sheep.
Honey is something you will find all over Herzegovina. And you'll find it has a unique and distinct flavor no matter where you go. It is said the secret is in the medicinal plants that cover every valley and mountainside. Whatever the reason, you can't go wrong with a batch of Hercegovački med.
Could one locate Herzegovina’s treasures with the Internet, iPhones, and tracking devices? Possibly. But could one see this kaleidoscope of colors and taste the cornucopia of flavors with a handheld gadget? Hardly. One must deeply drink a cool loza while nibbling klapavica figs. You must ogle beautiful women and get sideways looks from jealous men. You must witness a plentiful country despite its sparseness.
