Međugorje

A once sleepy village attracts pilgrims by the millions

Though the allure of Međugorje is based in mystery, this town – about 25 kilometers south and west of Mostar – is no secret to faithful Catholics the world over. The story of an apparition of the Virgin Mary (to the consternation of the then Yugoslav officials) in the hills between Međugorje and Bijakovići has made this once quiet village in Herzegovina the most-visited site in the country and the second-largest Catholic pilgrimage destination in the world.

As the legend goes, Mother Mary appeared to six teenagers on 24 June 1981 (2011 is the 30th anniversary). Though scepticism followed their account, the Queen of Peace appeared again and again and soon made believers out of even the most vocal critics. Some 15 million have visited since. But, when it comes to faith, it seems nothing is simple. Controversy continues to swirl around the legitimacy of the visions. In fact, the Pope has not recognized Međugorje as an official pilgrimage site. With or without the Pope’s official nod though, the faithful and curious have made this a bona fide, international tourism destination. Visitors can expect much better than usual infrastructure compared to many locales in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Restaurants and hotels – as well as a plethora of religious-kitsch vendors – happily cater to the needs of redemption seekers by the busload. But, put bluntly, inviting the world to visit one’s village has a by-product: Međugorje is quite commercialized. The ability to receive tens of thousands of visitors at a time means souvenirs (crosses, crucifixes, rosaries, statues, pictures, posters, and jewelry) by the boatload as well as parking lots full of cars, buses, and people, people, and more people … especially in the summer. The upside: it is easy to find Internet, information, guides in many languages, and some of the best general service in the country. Downside: if you travel in the summer, as many do, be aware that you will not be alone. Having said that, there are many people who come here not for the kitsch but for the Lord. When you arrive, you’ll see more than a few lost in prayer and hoping for spiritual guidance for themselves and their loved ones. They make their way to the blue cross marking Apparition Hill – many barefoot – where the Virgin Mary was seen thirty years ago. The footpath to Mount Križevac, or Cross Mountain, is lined with Stations of the Cross and has been trodden upon by folks from across the planet. The cross was erected in 1934. The main Church of St James is in the middle of town. Even when there is no Mass, which is rare because there are several everyday, the square around the church will be filled with people sitting and praying. As one would imagine, all religious holidays are celebrated with special vigor.

WHEN YOU GO 

Train

Web www.hznet.hr; www.sarajevo-tourism.com.

Regular daily trains from Zagreb, Croatia, and two from Sarajevo run to Mostar all year long. The line from Zagreb (via Sarajevo) makes stops in Banja Luka and Zenica and ends in Ploče on the Croatian coast.

Bus

There are half a dozen daily buses to Međugorje from Mostar starting at 6:30 in the morning. They run into the evening, catering to pilgrims. There are regular routes from Dubrovnik, Split, Makarska, and Zagreb – with Split and Dubrovnik being the most frequent.

Plane

The nearest active airports are in Split, Croatia (160 kilometers away), Dubrovnik, Croatia (150 kilometers), and Sarajevo (140 kilometers).

Automobile

From Sarajevo, take the M17 highway south to Mostar. It takes approximately two hours. It is an additional 25 kilometers from Mostar to Međugorje. 

ATTRACTIONS

Apparition Hill

Known as Crnica Hill, this is the spot between Međugorje and Bijakovići, where the six teenagers saw the Virgin Mary. There is a trail, which many will walk barefoot as an act of sacrifice. If such discomfort is not on the day’s agenda, make sure to wear a decent pair of walkers as the trail is rocky.

Church of St. James

Međugorje is, logically, the seat of the municipality parish. St. James, the main church in the middle of town, was originally built at the end of the 19th century. It was rebuilt in 1969. Since that mystical summer 1981, it has been a beehive of activity hosting a global congregation. There are regular services in English, German, French, Italian, and Spanish. St. James is, as it turns out, the patron saint of pilgrims. 

Mount Križevac

An eight-and-a-half-meter cross was erected here in 1934. The 520-meter mountain, about a kilometer from town “as the crow flies” – according to www.medjugorje.org – is another key pilgrimage destination. Mass is performed here on the first Sunday after September 8th, in honor of the Virgin Mary’s birthday.