Diva Grabovica

By Matias Gomez

For hikers and mountaineers, the valley of Diva Grabovica is an irresistible lure. For nature lovers, it is both sacred ground and an open playground.

The village of Diva Grabovica lies at the crossroads of natural boundaries between Mediterranean and continental climates. This small settlement is surrounded on all sides by towering limestone cliffs rising up to 2,000 meters. Such a geographical position has allowed for a level of biological diversity rarely found elsewhere in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

As a result, the valley lies at the very heart of a national park that is currently in the planning stages. Above the dense beech forest, on a ridge known as Žljeb, a hunting lodge is hidden from view along a trail originally built during the era of the first Yugoslavia for King Peter I Karađorđević. In the past, the king would ride on horseback through these mountains to reach his favorite hunting grounds.

Tito also visited Diva Grabovica, testing his hunting luck in what was then a protected hunting area for mouflon, chamois, bears, and wolves. Unfortunately, wildlife populations in this region were significantly reduced in the post-war period. Fortunately, hunting is no longer permitted here today.

The only sounds that disturb the stillness of this magical valley are the cries of eagles and hawks nesting high in its cliffs.

The mountain lodge Žljeb is reached from Diva Grabovica. The ascent from the valley to the surrounding peaks is a serious challenge, but one that truly rewards the effort. The lowest point of the valley lies at approximately 250 meters above sea level, offering hikers the opportunity to climb to viewpoints that rise nearly 1,000 meters above the valley floor, providing extraordinary panoramic views.

The trail is considered suitable for beginners, although certain sections are quite steep. For experienced hikers, it is classified as an easy route.

Access to the Trailhead

On the M-17 main road between Sarajevo and Mostar, approximately seven to eight kilometers south of Jablanica, you will find the Grabovica Hydropower Plant.

1. If arriving from Sarajevo, turn right at the sign for HPP Grabovica, near the dam, make a semi-circular turn, and continue along the road crossing the artificial lake.
   
2. After crossing the bridge, turn right, pass the entrance to the power plant, and continue driving as the valley of Diva Grabovica gradually opens before you.
   
3. Ignore the smaller road turning right immediately after the end of the gravel road (about six kilometers from the main road). Continue forward and cross the bridge. From there, ignore the first left turn and drive on until you reach a junction where you turn right, following a steep road down to a dry riverbed where you can park your car.
   

Destination: Žljeb Hunting Lodge

Mountain: Čvrsnica
Ascent time: 2 hours 30 minutes
Required fitness level: Moderate
Navigation difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 662 meters
Mine risk: None
Comment: A steep but short ascent leading to an inspiring viewpoint.

Along the first section of the trail, there are two water sources. An additional spring can be found slightly below a ruined mountain hut, approximately 20 minutes off the main route after a turn-off.

The Ascent

The ascent follows the northern side of the Diva Grabovica valley and begins from the dry riverbed where you leave your vehicle.

1. From the parking area, look for a clearly marked trail with red and white markings, which begins on the left (southwest) side of the dry riverbed.
   
2. Follow the trail as it initially runs parallel to the dry riverbed. It then crosses a tributary gully before ascending toward a clearing with stone tables and benches.
   
3. About ten meters beyond this picnic area, you will find zigzagging paths leading uphill. The trail soon reaches another clearing before entering the forest, where the most demanding section of the ascent begins.
   
4. The trail continues in zigzags up the steep side of the valley. After just over an hour, it enters denser forest, where the final ascent leads you to the Žljeb hunting lodge (approximately two hours total). Along the way, you will encounter two water sources.
   
5. The main trail passes directly along the right (northern) side of the lodge. On the left (southern) side, you will find a faint path leading into the forest. If you follow this path, after just 100 meters you will be rewarded with a spectacular viewpoint overlooking Diva Grabovica.
   

For those wishing to continue further and reach one of the lower peaks of the Dinaric range at Hajdučka Vrata, continue following the signs from Žljeb toward Tise. The winding trail leads to a natural stone arch known as Hajdučka Vrata. Here, at an elevation of 2,000 meters, the ascent takes approximately five hours one way.