Žilavka & Blatina

Written by: Josipa Andrijanić

The renowned writer Ivo Andrić once said: “Žilavka is full of laughter, and Blatina full of sweet transgressions.” Wine, much like art, is open to interpretation, so it is difficult to claim that everyone will react in the same way. What is certain, however, is this: Žilavka is a white grape variety, and Blatina a red one. Though completely different in appearance and flavor, they are inseparable—permanently bound by history and climate. They are synonymous with Herzegovinian wines and represent the region’s most precious autochthonous vineyard treasures. Today, these varieties are poured at tables around the world.

As international wine trends increasingly turn toward indigenous grape varieties, Herzegovinian wines appear poised to step into the spotlight. The reasons are obvious to anyone following the development of wine regions: a Mediterranean climate with abundant sunshine, hot summers and mild winters, proximity to the sea, and diverse soils. Together, these factors create ideal conditions for vine cultivation and the production of wines of exceptional quality.

Legend has it that Žilavka—a dry wine with 12–14% alcohol—was named after the fine veins visible beneath the translucent skin of its ripe grapes. Others claim the name comes from the firm, tough skin (žilava). Older generations combine all these theories, insisting that the variety is, in fact, all of the above—and highly adaptable. This combination results in a full-bodied wine with a seductive, expressive aroma.

Žilavka’s success lies not only in its name, but in its resilience. The variety is resistant to disease and drought and tolerates intense sunlight extremely well, making it the most widely planted grape in Herzegovina. Traditionally, Žilavka wines are produced with the addition of around 15% of other indigenous varieties such as Bena and Krkošija.

Although grapes like Žilavka are rarely grown as table grapes, ripe, golden-yellow Žilavka is remarkably tasty thanks to its balanced sugar–acid ratio and distinctive aroma. Every winery offers its own interpretation of Žilavka, yet common characteristics remain: a crystal-clear, greenish-yellow—sometimes golden—color and a pleasing level of acidity.

While winemaking technologies have evolved, Žilavka is still often aged in oak barrels—Slavonian, American, or French—and increasingly in handcrafted barrels from the village of Prusac in central Bosnia, adding another layer of local value to the wine.

Under favorable conditions, Blatina produces high yields. However, if rain falls during flowering, the blossoms may drop, which has earned the variety nicknames such as “empty barrel” and “poor bearer.” Like Žilavka, Blatina requires plenty of sunshine, but unlike it, Blatina also needs a significant amount of water. It thrives best in the valleys of the Neretva, Trebižat, and Trebišnjica rivers.

Blatina is a dry, powerful red wine with 12–13.5% alcohol. The grapes are large, uneven, and deep purple, borne on loose clusters. Blatina is considered a high-quality variety which, when vinified with expertise and planted in well-chosen sites, produces wines of exceptional quality—recognizable by their distinctive aromas and full, harmonious taste.

While many expressions of Blatina can be found on the market, particular attention is given to wines from wineries such as Prskalo, Brkić (Plava Greda), Nuić, and Andrija. Their barrique-aged Blatina wines reveal the grape’s full potential—layered, powerful, and aromatic.

Many wine lovers nostalgically recall the popularity of Žilavka during the 1970s and 1980s. Today, the variety is experiencing a strong revival thanks to modern winemaking techniques. Žilavka Vukoje from Trebinje—made from grapes grown in former imperial vineyards—is renowned for its complex aromas and freshness. Kameno vino from Čitluk has become synonymous with quality. Winery Andrija and their Žilavka Barrique were among the first to demonstrate how well Žilavka can mature in oak. Josip Brkić’s Greda and Mjesečar, aged using the sur lie method, reveal the astonishing potential of this variety.